SUNDAY OCT 11, 2015 WEDDING DAY! DAY 12
We are a diminished crowd this morning at breakfast. We are eating and not too many of our group is showing up. We did meet a young woman from Maryland though who works in Kabul, Afghanistan. She was here in Dushanbe for some meetings. Honestly, we did ask her what she did and honestly, I can't remember for the life of me. Guess I was impressed but not overly so!
We are going to the fort today just outside of town. Mauritius decides she has seen it on their money and since most of the fort has been rebuilt, it’s not even an old fort, just a new one with an old history so she doesn’t want to go. Walking Aussie is totally sick as is female Aussie couple. Canada isn’t feeling so good either . Thank goodness we have two nights here. What a treat again to stay in the same place for more than one night. So in the end, it is going to be just male Aussie couple, me, Wales and New York to go to the fort.
We are outside waiting for the car to arrive as they were unable to get it washed last night after the unfortunate incident with London being sick. We hear a lot of talking, laughter, and music coming from somewhere. Supposedly there is a mosque close to the hotel also which some said they could see out of their windows but I never saw it. Anyway, one of the hotel staff said that there was a wedding breakfast at the venue next door. He is telling Jamshed this and somehow we are suddenly invited over to see the breakfast and listen to the band. Mauritius was still downstairs deciding whether to go to the fort or not as was London so Mauritius ran back upstairs to get her camera and we all went over through the gated fence and into a large parking area where there were tables set up and lots of men sitting and talking and standing around and a band playing. It is explained to us that this is the groom’s breakfast. Somewhere there is a bride’s breakfast as well and the women are enjoying it without the menfolk.
We are standing at the entrance and the groom’s father and grandfather who are hosting the event see us and come over to invite us into the area and insist that we sit at the table and then they start bringing us all kinds of food. Wowzer. We had just eaten breakfast so how do we do this food justice when we are all pretty full from breakfast but we do our best. We are given osh, which is the typical rice dish that we get most places. They put a very large plate between each two of us . I’m sitting next to London so we are sharing a plate but she is still rather queasy so she doesn’t want to eat any. I eat from both sides of the plate so it looks like she is eating too.
We also have cucumbers and tomatoes and some other vegetables plus fruit juice and water to drink and the large round loaves of bread. So much food! We eat as much as we can. Don’t think we’ll need lunch after this. And the entire time, we are about 10’ in front of the band who is playing as loud as they can. It is delightful really. The band watches us watch them. The groom’s relatives come and greet us all and tell us how happy they are that we have come to watch and be a part of their celebration. And we are videoed so that they will have a record of us being there. This is my second wedding crashing party. My hubby and I were invited into a wedding once in India. What’s amazing is that the people are always so very, very, very gracious and happy to see you. You have to eat as well or they feel like they haven’t been a good host and they feel bad.
Finally the band takes a break and Jams uses that as our signal to leave. Mauritius and London make arrangements to meet us at this famous coffee shop in town at 11:30 or so which is supposed to be the time we will return from the fort . We’ve never been on time for anything but we’ll give it a go.
We stop first at a money changer because several of us are out of money now and there might be a few souvenirs this afternoon as we are also going to the Hyatt which has a traditional arts place of items for sale. Yea!
It isn’t that far to the fort but it takes us awhile to get out of town. We are pulled over once again because we are in a car with Kyrgyzstani plates. This cop is wanting a bribe. As far as we can tell, Slava is not doing bribes so sometimes it takes a bit longer to get through and oddly enough we always do get through so not sure what his secret is to avoid the bribes. But we are finally on our way. I am pretty sure at one point we were lost because it looked like we drove around the same block a couple of times but we came to the fort and parked the car and hoped out into a sea of people dancing and drums and horns blaring and in the middle was a bride in a western style white dress and her groom in a suit. Apparently the fort is a wonderful place for the locals to come and take wedding photos and have a party. They have to apply to do it and have a 3 hour time window. We discovered why because by the time we left, we had seen no fewer than 9 wedding parties !
Like I mentioned, the fort is rebuilt. It took us a bit to get to the entrance because we were all taking photos of the wedding party. It was our first one and we wanted to experience it as much as the guests themselves. The ladies were all dressed in very fancy dresses with a lot of sequins and shiny material. The men were mostly dressed nicely but a few in t shirts and jeans. There was a lot of dancing around the bride and groom so they had to walk at a very slow pace. The horns and drums were hired, I think. I think I saw the same men playing for a different bride and groom later. They were dressed in long green tunics. Other bands were just dressed regularly.
It seems to be the custom that the bride walks very slowly with her two hands holding onto the front of her veil. She holds this out from her waist and keeps her head down the entire time. It apparently shows respect for her future husband. I wouldn’t do well in a ceremony like that! The male guests were mostly dancing with each other and a few women. The women were mostly dancing with each other also or just walking along and laughing and having a good time. When they stop for photos, some of the brides would continually bow under her veil. Another "respect for her future husband" gesture . We only saw one bride who was not wearing a veil.
So into the fort and of course I have to go to the toilet which is out of the fort and at the other end of the yard and locked but Jams convinces the man to give us the key so away we go. Takes us about 10 minutes there and back as it was quite a hike. Back into the fort and you can walk up onto the wall and look over the front. Lots of families are visiting there with the kids and going up the walls. The rest of the fort is just shops on either side of the walkway which climbs the hill as it goes towards what would have originally been the back of the fort which is open.
We entered a few shops. Some had some interesting Suzannas for sale which are decorated coverings that Jams told us the women make for their hope chests before they are married. Some are quite extensive and beautiful. Another shop held costumes for weddings. And some of the shops were paintings of the country scenery or of the fort.
As we are going in and out of shops, a school group comes up the pathway. They are happy to interact with us and pose for photos
One shop was showing some weavings and two ladies were at a loom weaving . What was fascinating is that the older woman (my age probably) was seating at the loom but she was getting a lesson in weaving from the younger woman (probably in her late twenties or thirties). How great that she was learning and happy about it even learning from a younger woman. It looked very complicated.
Jams and Wales and male Aussie couple all want to climb the hill behind the fort which would have been the height of the original fort so they head up and Slava and New York and I go back out the front of the fort. As we leave, a family stops us and asks us to take their photos so we do. They don’t care that they don’t get a copy, they just like their photos taken.
There are also many wedding parties on the premises now. There are at least two groups walking from the parking lot and another group about to climb up to the fort, another group at a statue by the front of the fort and a very small group walking alongside the fort. The small group was just the bride and groom and a few attendants. She had on a very intricately woven veil that was opaque so that we couldn’t see her face at all. She also had it held in front of her with both hands at waist level. It sort of creates a tent in front of their face. It was a beautiful dress .
The group that is entering the fort has a very loud band with two of the very long horns. The horn players see me taking photos and they start playing very loud and keep walking towards me in fun so I am almost face first into the horn opening. We were all laughing. The brides and grooms also didn’t seem to have any problem that we were taking as many photos as their own guests and photographers and many of them smiled at us as we passed as did the guests.
The wall climbers come out of the fort and we go over to the building on the other side of the complex which was a former madrassa or school. It is also being refurbished into a museum and some of the rooms are open but some are still under construction. We went into each room that was open and saw some of the traditional implements used in daily life. There was also a room that was the “bridal room”. Jams told us that traditionally, marriages were arranged and the bride and groom did not know each other until the wedding. His was arranged as well but he did meet his bride before the wedding and told his parents she was acceptable. She said the same of him so they got married. Anyway, after the wedding, the couple would retire to this room and stay in this room for three days, only coming out for the toilet . Food would be delivered to them. The room was pretty much just a big sleeping area with small shelves for tea fixings and maybe a change of clothes.
There were a few people standing on the roof of the madrassa and Jams recognized one lady as a popular TV presenter so they were doing some kind of program. She was quite pretty. She saw me taking a photo of her so she blew me a kiss and struck a pose for me.
Time to leave and well after the time we were supposed to meet the others at the coffee shop. We struggle to leave the compound as more wedding parties are entering as we are leaving. Some of the men try to get us to dance with them which is mainly a lot of waving of the hands in certain patterns but we don’t have time. Of course we are parked in the middle of a huge traffic jam now and have to wiggle our way out of it which is accomplished mainly by Slava yelling at a lot of people. But we are finally free and do not get lost on the way back and end up at the Hyatt shop which is actually where we were supposed to meet.
It is a delightful little shop with the storekeeper’s father being the artist of many of the paintings . He also has some beautiful rugs and scarves that are a combination of wool and silk. I find one that is especially appealing and get it. He told us our group had been into the shop some time ago and then they had left. We look all over the Hyatt for them and then go to the coffee shop which is this monstrous huge lovely beautiful building. Jams and Slava are looking everywhere and not finding our group. Wales and male aussie couple and New York and I are in the garden looking at the roses when suddenly Jams comes running back to us and tells us we have to leave because Walking Aussie has gotten extremely ill and the hotel has called him and they want him back so they can take her to the hospital.
Apparently Walking Aussie had gone downstairs and gotten some drink or food or something and then gone to the toilet in the lobby because she couldn’t get back to her room and then gotten in the lift and passed out. Luckily she wasn’t passed out long but the hotel staff got her out of the lift and called Jams.
So at the hotel, Jams goes to help. I go to my room because Canada and I had agreed that if we were separated, she would leave the key at the desk which of course she didn’t. Finally the cleaning lady let me into the room. Shortly after that, Canada shows up and then the rest of the gang shows up in our room, London and Mauritius and we make arrangements to go get lunch and go get Wales too so he knows and Slava becomes our taxi driver as Jams goes off to the hospital with Walking Aussie.
Slava drives us to the bazaar and drops New York at the museum to her delight . Turns out our ladies were at the coffee shop waiting for us but for some reason Jams didn’t go the right way to find them so they had to come back by taxi.
At the market, we are looking for the bread stamps. These are the stamps that were used by each bakery to mark their bread so people would know where the bread was baked. I’ve seen them in a few markets and pointed them out but no one was interested until now. So now we are in a search for them. We aren’t having much luck until Canada makes a stamping motion with her hand and someone figures out that is what we want and directs us to the back part of the market where there are tools and such and we find a couple of stalls with different stamps.
This was the local food market as well and tons of spices and teas. Most of the people were happy to have their photos take but a few of the ladies said no. I always honor that because I don’t like my photo taken either.
Got some street ice cream for 1 somoni and it was good. Waiting for Mauritius who headed off to find T shirts and some scarves but she was unsuccessful. Then Slava drove Canada and I back to the Hyatt because she had the shopkeeper put aside one of the rugs and decided she did want it and went back for it . He had another rug that was beautiful and I liked it a lot but it was $500 and just couldn’t justify coming home from Central Asia with another rug.
We actually thought about walking back to the hotel but my sense of direction has been wonky ever since I started living in England with all the roundabouts and such and she had a rug to carry so we got a taxi. Had a bit of a rest and got some emails then out for dinner.
Dinner at 7 with only the drivers, Wales, Mauritius, London, New York and me and Jamshed. Canada decided she’d had enough activity for the afternoon and stayed behind.
We walked to the fancy tea shop in town for dinner. We are having rice soup but it is surprisingly good. And of course there is a wedding there! So we ask if we can go take photos. We have to walk through their serving area to get to the wedding party. The bride and groom are seated on a raised dais in the front of the room. They have finished their meal so the dishes are being cleared. The wait staff pushes us further into the room so we can have a better view and we start taking photos. The bride, while seated, is still doing the bowing thing, about one bow every 30 seconds to a minute.
Most of the guests are up and dancing with the hand thingy again. Pretty soon, a couple of guests go up and drag the groom down from the dais and he starts dancing. Then they get the bride and it takes her a bit to manage to get around the table with her full long trained dress . She doesn’t really dance but stands in front of her groom and does the bowing thing. I’m unable to get closer to take photos so we leave the party. Wow, that’s about 12 wedding parties we crashed today!
Back to the table to finish our dinner. We finish and head across the street to a shop that Mauritius found which has old Suzannas and other scarves and older things that have been purchased for re-sale or have been found in attics or such. We had stopped on our way in and he said he would wait for us to finish dinner so somebody had to buy something. I ended up buying an old Suzanna. He says it was 60 years old he thought. It wasn’t handmade but machine stitched but it was quite lovely and the stitching and material looked like it could be 60 years old and not just dirty. He started with quite a high price of over $120 but I got it for $64 so we were both happy.
Some of the others went to the grocery next door.
Rained on us going back to the hotel but not really enough to hurt us or get us too wet. While I was buying my Suzanna, the others went and got us a yoghurt which was quite tasty. We took one back to Canada too but she was still too sick to drink it.
We are a diminished crowd this morning at breakfast. We are eating and not too many of our group is showing up. We did meet a young woman from Maryland though who works in Kabul, Afghanistan. She was here in Dushanbe for some meetings. Honestly, we did ask her what she did and honestly, I can't remember for the life of me. Guess I was impressed but not overly so!
We are going to the fort today just outside of town. Mauritius decides she has seen it on their money and since most of the fort has been rebuilt, it’s not even an old fort, just a new one with an old history so she doesn’t want to go. Walking Aussie is totally sick as is female Aussie couple. Canada isn’t feeling so good either . Thank goodness we have two nights here. What a treat again to stay in the same place for more than one night. So in the end, it is going to be just male Aussie couple, me, Wales and New York to go to the fort.
We are outside waiting for the car to arrive as they were unable to get it washed last night after the unfortunate incident with London being sick. We hear a lot of talking, laughter, and music coming from somewhere. Supposedly there is a mosque close to the hotel also which some said they could see out of their windows but I never saw it. Anyway, one of the hotel staff said that there was a wedding breakfast at the venue next door. He is telling Jamshed this and somehow we are suddenly invited over to see the breakfast and listen to the band. Mauritius was still downstairs deciding whether to go to the fort or not as was London so Mauritius ran back upstairs to get her camera and we all went over through the gated fence and into a large parking area where there were tables set up and lots of men sitting and talking and standing around and a band playing. It is explained to us that this is the groom’s breakfast. Somewhere there is a bride’s breakfast as well and the women are enjoying it without the menfolk.
We are standing at the entrance and the groom’s father and grandfather who are hosting the event see us and come over to invite us into the area and insist that we sit at the table and then they start bringing us all kinds of food. Wowzer. We had just eaten breakfast so how do we do this food justice when we are all pretty full from breakfast but we do our best. We are given osh, which is the typical rice dish that we get most places. They put a very large plate between each two of us . I’m sitting next to London so we are sharing a plate but she is still rather queasy so she doesn’t want to eat any. I eat from both sides of the plate so it looks like she is eating too.
We also have cucumbers and tomatoes and some other vegetables plus fruit juice and water to drink and the large round loaves of bread. So much food! We eat as much as we can. Don’t think we’ll need lunch after this. And the entire time, we are about 10’ in front of the band who is playing as loud as they can. It is delightful really. The band watches us watch them. The groom’s relatives come and greet us all and tell us how happy they are that we have come to watch and be a part of their celebration. And we are videoed so that they will have a record of us being there. This is my second wedding crashing party. My hubby and I were invited into a wedding once in India. What’s amazing is that the people are always so very, very, very gracious and happy to see you. You have to eat as well or they feel like they haven’t been a good host and they feel bad.
Finally the band takes a break and Jams uses that as our signal to leave. Mauritius and London make arrangements to meet us at this famous coffee shop in town at 11:30 or so which is supposed to be the time we will return from the fort . We’ve never been on time for anything but we’ll give it a go.
We stop first at a money changer because several of us are out of money now and there might be a few souvenirs this afternoon as we are also going to the Hyatt which has a traditional arts place of items for sale. Yea!
It isn’t that far to the fort but it takes us awhile to get out of town. We are pulled over once again because we are in a car with Kyrgyzstani plates. This cop is wanting a bribe. As far as we can tell, Slava is not doing bribes so sometimes it takes a bit longer to get through and oddly enough we always do get through so not sure what his secret is to avoid the bribes. But we are finally on our way. I am pretty sure at one point we were lost because it looked like we drove around the same block a couple of times but we came to the fort and parked the car and hoped out into a sea of people dancing and drums and horns blaring and in the middle was a bride in a western style white dress and her groom in a suit. Apparently the fort is a wonderful place for the locals to come and take wedding photos and have a party. They have to apply to do it and have a 3 hour time window. We discovered why because by the time we left, we had seen no fewer than 9 wedding parties !
Like I mentioned, the fort is rebuilt. It took us a bit to get to the entrance because we were all taking photos of the wedding party. It was our first one and we wanted to experience it as much as the guests themselves. The ladies were all dressed in very fancy dresses with a lot of sequins and shiny material. The men were mostly dressed nicely but a few in t shirts and jeans. There was a lot of dancing around the bride and groom so they had to walk at a very slow pace. The horns and drums were hired, I think. I think I saw the same men playing for a different bride and groom later. They were dressed in long green tunics. Other bands were just dressed regularly.
It seems to be the custom that the bride walks very slowly with her two hands holding onto the front of her veil. She holds this out from her waist and keeps her head down the entire time. It apparently shows respect for her future husband. I wouldn’t do well in a ceremony like that! The male guests were mostly dancing with each other and a few women. The women were mostly dancing with each other also or just walking along and laughing and having a good time. When they stop for photos, some of the brides would continually bow under her veil. Another "respect for her future husband" gesture . We only saw one bride who was not wearing a veil.
So into the fort and of course I have to go to the toilet which is out of the fort and at the other end of the yard and locked but Jams convinces the man to give us the key so away we go. Takes us about 10 minutes there and back as it was quite a hike. Back into the fort and you can walk up onto the wall and look over the front. Lots of families are visiting there with the kids and going up the walls. The rest of the fort is just shops on either side of the walkway which climbs the hill as it goes towards what would have originally been the back of the fort which is open.
We entered a few shops. Some had some interesting Suzannas for sale which are decorated coverings that Jams told us the women make for their hope chests before they are married. Some are quite extensive and beautiful. Another shop held costumes for weddings. And some of the shops were paintings of the country scenery or of the fort.
As we are going in and out of shops, a school group comes up the pathway. They are happy to interact with us and pose for photos
One shop was showing some weavings and two ladies were at a loom weaving . What was fascinating is that the older woman (my age probably) was seating at the loom but she was getting a lesson in weaving from the younger woman (probably in her late twenties or thirties). How great that she was learning and happy about it even learning from a younger woman. It looked very complicated.
Jams and Wales and male Aussie couple all want to climb the hill behind the fort which would have been the height of the original fort so they head up and Slava and New York and I go back out the front of the fort. As we leave, a family stops us and asks us to take their photos so we do. They don’t care that they don’t get a copy, they just like their photos taken.
There are also many wedding parties on the premises now. There are at least two groups walking from the parking lot and another group about to climb up to the fort, another group at a statue by the front of the fort and a very small group walking alongside the fort. The small group was just the bride and groom and a few attendants. She had on a very intricately woven veil that was opaque so that we couldn’t see her face at all. She also had it held in front of her with both hands at waist level. It sort of creates a tent in front of their face. It was a beautiful dress .
The group that is entering the fort has a very loud band with two of the very long horns. The horn players see me taking photos and they start playing very loud and keep walking towards me in fun so I am almost face first into the horn opening. We were all laughing. The brides and grooms also didn’t seem to have any problem that we were taking as many photos as their own guests and photographers and many of them smiled at us as we passed as did the guests.
The wall climbers come out of the fort and we go over to the building on the other side of the complex which was a former madrassa or school. It is also being refurbished into a museum and some of the rooms are open but some are still under construction. We went into each room that was open and saw some of the traditional implements used in daily life. There was also a room that was the “bridal room”. Jams told us that traditionally, marriages were arranged and the bride and groom did not know each other until the wedding. His was arranged as well but he did meet his bride before the wedding and told his parents she was acceptable. She said the same of him so they got married. Anyway, after the wedding, the couple would retire to this room and stay in this room for three days, only coming out for the toilet . Food would be delivered to them. The room was pretty much just a big sleeping area with small shelves for tea fixings and maybe a change of clothes.
There were a few people standing on the roof of the madrassa and Jams recognized one lady as a popular TV presenter so they were doing some kind of program. She was quite pretty. She saw me taking a photo of her so she blew me a kiss and struck a pose for me.
Time to leave and well after the time we were supposed to meet the others at the coffee shop. We struggle to leave the compound as more wedding parties are entering as we are leaving. Some of the men try to get us to dance with them which is mainly a lot of waving of the hands in certain patterns but we don’t have time. Of course we are parked in the middle of a huge traffic jam now and have to wiggle our way out of it which is accomplished mainly by Slava yelling at a lot of people. But we are finally free and do not get lost on the way back and end up at the Hyatt shop which is actually where we were supposed to meet.
It is a delightful little shop with the storekeeper’s father being the artist of many of the paintings . He also has some beautiful rugs and scarves that are a combination of wool and silk. I find one that is especially appealing and get it. He told us our group had been into the shop some time ago and then they had left. We look all over the Hyatt for them and then go to the coffee shop which is this monstrous huge lovely beautiful building. Jams and Slava are looking everywhere and not finding our group. Wales and male aussie couple and New York and I are in the garden looking at the roses when suddenly Jams comes running back to us and tells us we have to leave because Walking Aussie has gotten extremely ill and the hotel has called him and they want him back so they can take her to the hospital.
Apparently Walking Aussie had gone downstairs and gotten some drink or food or something and then gone to the toilet in the lobby because she couldn’t get back to her room and then gotten in the lift and passed out. Luckily she wasn’t passed out long but the hotel staff got her out of the lift and called Jams.
So at the hotel, Jams goes to help. I go to my room because Canada and I had agreed that if we were separated, she would leave the key at the desk which of course she didn’t. Finally the cleaning lady let me into the room. Shortly after that, Canada shows up and then the rest of the gang shows up in our room, London and Mauritius and we make arrangements to go get lunch and go get Wales too so he knows and Slava becomes our taxi driver as Jams goes off to the hospital with Walking Aussie.
Slava drives us to the bazaar and drops New York at the museum to her delight . Turns out our ladies were at the coffee shop waiting for us but for some reason Jams didn’t go the right way to find them so they had to come back by taxi.
At the market, we are looking for the bread stamps. These are the stamps that were used by each bakery to mark their bread so people would know where the bread was baked. I’ve seen them in a few markets and pointed them out but no one was interested until now. So now we are in a search for them. We aren’t having much luck until Canada makes a stamping motion with her hand and someone figures out that is what we want and directs us to the back part of the market where there are tools and such and we find a couple of stalls with different stamps.
This was the local food market as well and tons of spices and teas. Most of the people were happy to have their photos take but a few of the ladies said no. I always honor that because I don’t like my photo taken either.
Got some street ice cream for 1 somoni and it was good. Waiting for Mauritius who headed off to find T shirts and some scarves but she was unsuccessful. Then Slava drove Canada and I back to the Hyatt because she had the shopkeeper put aside one of the rugs and decided she did want it and went back for it . He had another rug that was beautiful and I liked it a lot but it was $500 and just couldn’t justify coming home from Central Asia with another rug.
We actually thought about walking back to the hotel but my sense of direction has been wonky ever since I started living in England with all the roundabouts and such and she had a rug to carry so we got a taxi. Had a bit of a rest and got some emails then out for dinner.
Dinner at 7 with only the drivers, Wales, Mauritius, London, New York and me and Jamshed. Canada decided she’d had enough activity for the afternoon and stayed behind.
We walked to the fancy tea shop in town for dinner. We are having rice soup but it is surprisingly good. And of course there is a wedding there! So we ask if we can go take photos. We have to walk through their serving area to get to the wedding party. The bride and groom are seated on a raised dais in the front of the room. They have finished their meal so the dishes are being cleared. The wait staff pushes us further into the room so we can have a better view and we start taking photos. The bride, while seated, is still doing the bowing thing, about one bow every 30 seconds to a minute.
Most of the guests are up and dancing with the hand thingy again. Pretty soon, a couple of guests go up and drag the groom down from the dais and he starts dancing. Then they get the bride and it takes her a bit to manage to get around the table with her full long trained dress . She doesn’t really dance but stands in front of her groom and does the bowing thing. I’m unable to get closer to take photos so we leave the party. Wow, that’s about 12 wedding parties we crashed today!
Back to the table to finish our dinner. We finish and head across the street to a shop that Mauritius found which has old Suzannas and other scarves and older things that have been purchased for re-sale or have been found in attics or such. We had stopped on our way in and he said he would wait for us to finish dinner so somebody had to buy something. I ended up buying an old Suzanna. He says it was 60 years old he thought. It wasn’t handmade but machine stitched but it was quite lovely and the stitching and material looked like it could be 60 years old and not just dirty. He started with quite a high price of over $120 but I got it for $64 so we were both happy.
Some of the others went to the grocery next door.
Rained on us going back to the hotel but not really enough to hurt us or get us too wet. While I was buying my Suzanna, the others went and got us a yoghurt which was quite tasty. We took one back to Canada too but she was still too sick to drink it.
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